L I N D E W A I D H O F E R / W O R K S H O P S 2 0 1 0
PATAGONIA IN AUTUMN
A two-part traveling safari & workshop
Photos above: sunrise on the Horns of Paine, and autum colors on the Cofre Pass.
Although you will see quite a few images on this page, photographed during the weeks of a typical Photo Safari, I encourgage you to visit the PORTFOLIO section of this web site, to see a broader range of images of Patagonia.
After many years of leading these wonderful photo trips, I have decided to rededicate my South American autumns to exploring new venues. But I am happy to say these Photo Safaris are still continuing, under the skillful leadership of my good friend and photographer extraordinarie, Bill Ellzey...
I am leaving the Itinerary and notes for last year's Photo Safari posted on my web site for now, so that visitors can get an idea of how this wonderful trip unfolds. Bill Ellzey, the photographer who is now leading this annual Patagonia photo trip is a long-time photo colleague and dear friend. He is a brilliant landscape photographer, and an experienced and gifted workshop instructor—and has already guided Patagonia photo trips. You can learn more about Bill, his photography and his workshops at his web site, WWW.BILLELLZEY.COM. And of course, Ruth Cohen, and her great Salvaje Corazon team will continue to be the guide/outfitters for this trip in future years.
Patagonia in autumn has to be one of the most exciting photo destinations of a lifetime. And the most exciting time to visit and photograph Patagonia is autumn. (southern-hemisphere autumn, that is – which falls in April.) This autumn Photo Safari begins in central Patagonia, a region of temperate turquoise lakes, tumbling crystal rivers, and magnificent forests of native beech trees. A region I always call "Unknown Patagonia" because this central zone of Chilean Patagonia bears little resemblance to the harsh and stereotypical Patagonian landscape of desolate wind-swept steppe punctuated by a handful of ice-shrouded spires that has come to represent Patagonia in so many international publications.
Then, for Part Two of this autumn Photo Safari, participans will fly even further south to Punta Arenas, to visit the spectacular mountainscapes of the Torres del Paine National Park. Photographers participate in either part, or, hopefully, in both. For full details, prices, dates, etc., please visit Bill Ellzey's web site, WWW.BILLELLZEY.COM.
Although Patagonia is wild, pristine and dramatic, this trip is not about be roughing it. Wonderful local food, the best local accommodations, and transportation by comfortable van, are all included – and fabulous Chilean wine is a welcome extra. These photo safaris are limited to a very small group: eight photographer-participants. But this small group will be guided, looked after, and, so-to-speak, pampered by an amazing team. In addition to the photographic leader and instructor, Bill Ellzey, there will be two guides and a full-time driver. This adds up to an unusual client-to-staff ratio – actually unheard of in the travel-photography business. And it's not just a matter of numbers. The local insider's knowledge, and the photographic expertise that this team will share is simply unequaled.
From daily gourmet picnic lunches to reservations at the very best lodges in this remote corner of the world, to an in-depth knowledge of the local flora, fauna, weather, topography and people, the wonderful Chilean outfitter/guide of this trip, Ruth Cohen (with whom I worked for eight years) is totally dedicated to making these photo safaris as enjoyable and memorable as possible. Your driver can take you places in a compact but comfortable van that larger photo groups can't even hope to visit.
S A M P L E S C H E D U L E / I T I N E R A R Y
Part one
"Unknown Patagonia"
the autumn forests, rivers and lakes of central Patagonia.
Photo above right: The gorge of the rio Baker in central Aysen
Photos below: the Marble Caverns of Lago Carrera, and autum foliage in the beech forests along the Carretera Austral or southern road...
Day 1
Arrive at Coyhaique's airport (in the nearby town of Balmaceda) by air from Santiago. Transfer to Coyhaique, the capital of Chilean Patagonia, and our hotel. Evening orientation and welcome dinner.
Day 2
A warm-up day, in the form of a day-trip photo excursion from Coyhaique to one of several remarkable nearby locations — the choice depending in large measure on the intensity of the region's fall colors.
Day 3
Early morning departure for Cerro Castillo and Rio Tranquilo. Cerro Castillo (or Castle Mountain) is one of the most photogenic and spectacular peaks in all of Patagonia. We continue along an impressive river valley, past reminders of a volcanic eruption, and over a mountain pass surrounded by glacier-clad peaks. In the afternoon we drive along the western shore of Lago General Carrera, the second largest lake in South America, to the little village of Puerto Tanquilo.
Day 4
From our lodge in Puerto Tranquilo, we visit the Cavernas de Mármol (or Marble Caves) one of the most spectacular and surreal landscapes in all South America. (See my eBook, Blue Light, and the Marble Caves portfolio on this web site.) Then we continue around Lago Carrera, photographing the glaciers above the delta of the Rio Leones beneath Patagoina's highest summit, Cerro San Valentin. After a full day we arrive at the Green Baker Lodge on the banks of the Rio Baker.
Day 5
Today we photograph along the Rio Baker. The Baker river is known to anglers for its world-class trout fishing, but is irresistible to photographers for its otherworldly blue color. En route to the Chacabuco Valley, site of the future, Patagonia National Park, we visit the spectacular confluence (waterfall and rapids) of the Baker and Nef rivers. Valle Chacabuco is such a rich environment that this day we only begin our photographic exploration of it, returning in the late afternoon to the Green Baker Lodge.
Day 6
This morning we returm to the Chacabuco valley. This valley, part of the last great private ranch or estancia in Patagonia, has recently been purchased by the Patagonia Land Trust and is the core area of a large conservation/park project. The landscape changes dramatically into a series of pampas, grasslands and wetland ponds or mallines. Here we always encounter herds of wild guanaco. In the evening we return to Lago General Carrera, and check into Terra Luna, a lovely lakeside lodge near the little town of Puerto Guadal.
Day 7
After pre-dawn and dawn photography of the high icefield peaks across the lake, we head off to explore the southern shoreline of Lago Carrera: plunging cliffs, transparent turquoise water, enchanting fundos (farms) tributary rivers and deep red autumn trees provide constantly varying photographic stimulation. We spend a second night at Terra Luna.
Day 8
Return by road to Coyhaique, photographing the Rio Murta valley, the beautiful Rio Cajon or Box River, a valley of dead trees smothered by ash and lava from Volcán Hudson, and final evening photo opportunities around Cerro Castillo before reaching Coyhaique for a gala farewell dinner.
Day 9
Departure from Coyhaique for home. Or, for those continuing on with Part Two of our Patagonian Safari...See below.
Part two
"The Torres del Paine"
the granite spires and glaciers of
the Torres del Paine
Day 9
Basically a transportation and arrival day. Some participants from Part One may be heading home, Those joining us for both parts of this Patagonian adventure will fly on south with us, to Punta Arenas, the capital of Chile's 12th region, right next to the Straits of Magellan and Tierra del Fuego. And those photographers who are only participating in this second segment, will join us in the evening in Punta Arenas.
Day 10
From Punta Arenas we drive north by van, pausing for a fresh seafood lunch in Puerto Natales, to arrive at the Torres del Paine in the afternoon.. Check into the Hosteria Pehoe, a classic hotel on a small island (reached by a footbridge) in Lago Pehoe, directly beneath the famous Cuernos or "Horns" of Paine
Day 11
Our day begins with a dawn shoot of the Horns or Cuernos, directly across the lake from our hotel. After breakfast, we head off by van to explore the center of the national park. We will spend a second night at the Hosteria Pehoe.
Day 12
Another day devoted to the spectacular peaks and lakes near Lago Pehoe. In the evening we drive to a new inn, the Hosteria Grey on the shores of Lago Grey.
Day 13
We focus on the floating icebergs or "témpanos" in Lago Grey; a boat excursion to the face of the giant glacier feeding this lake takes us right beneath the blue cliffs of thousand-year-old ice. We spend a second night at the Hosteria Grey.
Day 14
Today, we once more change our base of operations, moving to the other side of the park, an area well known for its wildlife, especially guanacos and foxes that often seem to want to pose just beneath the most dramatic peaks. We spend the night at the Hosteria Los Torres.
Day 15
After a final dawn shoot, we pack up and head for Punta Arenas. An all-day trip to be sure, with more opportunities to photograph on the shores of Bitter Lake (Lago Amargo) as well as abundant wildlife, birds and dramatic beech forests en route to Punta Arenas
Day 16
Departure by air from Punta Arenas
